Travels on the Somme Part Two – Thiepval: The Leipzig Redoubt

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If you remember, we had just left the Thiepval Memorial…

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…and were heading towards a clump of trees I had spotted away to the south…

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…that I thought might be worth a visit while we are here.

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The others had returned to the car, and I had set off across the fields on my own.  And for good reason.

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You see it was at this point that the German front line deviated from its slightly south western course to turn sharply south east and then east (see trench map below), leaving the defenders of what was in effect a small salient vulnerable to attacks on two sides.

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Unsurprisingly the Germans created a strongpoint here which, like the Schwaben Redoubt to the north of Thiepval village, bristled with machine guns and defensive fortifications.  The map shows the Leipzig Redoubt in the bottom left hand corner, opposite the word ‘Avenue’.

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Once a chalk quarry…

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…if you take another look at the trench map you can see the small escarpment, visible in the photos above, quite clearly marked.

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In fact the storming of the Leipzig Redoubt by men of the Highland Light Infantry on the morning of 1st July 1916 was one of the very few successes achieved by the British north of the Albert-Bapaume road that day.  Creeping forward to within 40 yards of the German positions a few minutes before the British bombardment lifted, the Scots rushed the redoubt, catching the German defenders still sheltering in their dugouts.  Little further progress could be made, but the Leipzig Redoubt remained in British hands despite German attempts to recapture it.

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Looking south west, the site of the redoubt on our left; the German front line would have turned to the left here, pretty much where the track begins to do so.

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Hmm.  What’s this, I wonder?

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Recognize one of these?  It’s the first one I’ve come across on my travels.

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Stokes mortar round.  Still lying there after all these years.  It once looked like this.

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I don’t think we’ll go in there.

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Anyway, I really can’t stay here too long, that would make me hugely unpopular, so we shall begin our return journey.

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Unexploded British shell.

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It does make you wonder how much more is still lying in the undergrowth.

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The German trenches would have crossed this field towards the memorial in the distance.  The British attack came from the left hand side of the photo.

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Turning to our right, this would have been the view that the men of the H.L.I. would have had as they stormed the redoubt.

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In March 1917, following the Germans’ voluntary withdrawal to the Hindenburg Line, the author John Masefield, commissioned at the behest of the Foreign Office to write a book on the battle, travelled the Somme battlefields.  He wrote to his wife; “Took in the Leipzig Redoubt…I never saw such mud, or such a sight, in all my days.  Other places are bad and full of death, but this was deep in mud as well, a kind of chaos of deep running holes and broken ground and filthy chasms, and pools and stands and marshes of iron-coloured water, and yellow snow and bedevilment.  Old rags of wet uniform were everywhere, and bones and legs and feet and hands were sticking out of the ground, and in one place were all the tools of a squad just as they had laid them down; in order, and then all the squad, where they had been killed, and the skull of one of them in a pool, and, nearby, the grave of half a German, and then a German overcoat with ribs inside it, and rifles and bombs and shells literally in heaps…such a hell of desolation all round as no words can describe”.

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Some of the shells…

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… and many of the men, I am sure…

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…are still here.

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Better hurry now, or else I shall be in serious trouble!

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But it was definitely worth it.  Of the thousands of people who visit the Thiepval Memorial each month, very few, I suspect, make the walk to the redoubt.  Most probably don’t know of its existence.  The ten minutes I spent there was a lonely and sobering experience.

I wouldn’t have missed it.

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With one final look over our shoulder…

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…we find ourselves back at the memorial…

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…and just a few minutes from the Visitor Centre…

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…where Baldrick and the others patiently (?) await.

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Still, all’s well that ends well.  As we leave Thiepval, it’s worth mentioning how useful the memorial is as a landmark when touring this part of the Somme, as you will see in future posts.

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8 Responses to Travels on the Somme Part Two – Thiepval: The Leipzig Redoubt

  1. Mrs Baldrick says:

    I have to say you were hugely unpopular during those 15 minutes we have to wait in the car, but now I know it was for a good cause. You’ve found a very special place we wouldn’t have noticed otherwise. And now you are back to your regular levels of popularity anyway so: Well done Sir!

    • Magicfingers says:

      Heh heh! I feel terribly guilty when I go off wandering for too long (unlike when it’s just Baldrick and me, when I never feel guilty about anything!) but thank you for appreciating that there were very good reasons on this occasion.

  2. Walter Keey says:

    Remembering my 18 year old Grandfather who was awarded the Military Cross for valour shown on 7th September 1918. Épehy (Capron Copse near Saulcourt) South African fighting for, I think 7th London Regiment. He went on to live to the age of 74 in the Eastern Cape in South Africa. This posting on 11 – 11 – 2015 (97 years on from Armistice day) I’m so thankful he survived that terrible war and grateful to those that fell in the service of mankind. Thank you for your posting

    • Magicfingers says:

      Well said Walter. And thank you for commenting, particularly on this day. I have just posted my own tribute on the Home Page.

  3. C. Fraser says:

    Thank you for taking the time to photograph, describe and post this. My Great Uncle was in A Coy, 3 Pltn of the 3rd Salford Pals (19th Lancs Fusiliers) on July 1 and was apparently one of only about 40 men of that battalion to get into the Redoubt. I know this because his letter describing the day refers to sites he could only have seen in the Redoubt. Your pictures make it clear what the Redoubt looks like today. Amazing how few photos there are on available online to show one of the few British successes of the day. I hope to visit one day but if I don’t get there, your photos are almost as good.

    • Magicfingers says:

      That’s very kind of you to say so. I’m glad you appreciated this post. When I was researching for this post I also realised that there was very little online, as you say, so hopefully this post fills a bit of the gap. And thanks for telling us about your Great Uncle – your site is a fine tribute..

  4. John Henderson says:

    Magicfingers, thank you so much. My wife and I have just watched this evening’s service from Thiepval (on the eve of the 100th anniversary of the Somme) vaguely knowing that this was somewhere close to where her grandfather had seen action on the 1st July with the 17th HLI in the assault on the Liepzig Redoubt. Thanks to your photos we can now see just how close. Miraculously Matthew Cullen survived Ypres, the Somme and Passchendaele, but the Second World Ware broke his heart and his mind. Just one story among millions.

    • Magicfingers says:

      Hello John. Thanks ever so for your kind comments. As you will have gathered, my visit to the Leipzig Redoubt was thought-provoking to say the least. If you ever get the chance…

      And thanks for telling briefly Matthew Cullens story; and how sad in the end.

      Watch out for a new post which should hit this site at 7.30 in the morning. Not Thiepval, but I think you might find it of interest nonetheless.

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